Blossom End Rot 08/31/2011
Blossom end rot is just what it sounds like… The end of the tomato that had the blossom on it turns black and nasty, rotting as the tomato grows and ripens. I’m going to look at the reasons why and how to prevent it. Moisture Tomatoes require regular consistent water to help development. When the tomatoes go without too long or suddenly get watered a lot in the middle of a drought, the watering will stress the tomatoes. The drought itself will cause the blossom end rot while the sudden surge of water will make the fruit crack and split. Try mulching heavily around the plants. A thick mulch will maintain a more even moisture level by preventing much of the natural evaporation and will also prevent weeds. In the driest times, water the tomatoes as well. Minerals Tomatoes do require certain to grow and produce fruit. Calcium is often a culprit but phosphorus can be too. Lack of moisture can also block the plant from taking adequate amounts of minerals up. When planting, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus (that’s the middle number such as 4 - 10 - 4) and supplement with a high calcium additive. I used bone meal this year as its high in phosphorus and calcium. Epsom salt will also work. Soil Ideal soil should be close to neutral (around 6.5). If the soil is either too base or too acidic, amending the soil to bring it back to neutral is a must. Soil that is too far off will prevent the uptake of calcium. Lime, sulphur, or even acidic peat moss can help adjust it. I recommend taking soil samples to your local extension office or the growers co-op for soil testing. Locally, its about $7 for a soil analysis with a complete breakdown of macro and micro nutrient levels as well as the pH level. The analysis also gives a recommendation of what to add and how much to correct any problems. Planting Timing is crucial to all plants. Too soon and the plant may die from frost. Too late and it won’t have time to produce fruit. This is especially important here. Tomatoes planted too soon in cold heavy soils will suffer from the cold and lack of drainage. Ensure that plants are properly hardened off and that the soil is warmed up for them. Covering the area with black plastic can heat it up quicker and allow an earlier planting. If the plants were planted when the soil was too cold, the early fruit is more likely to suffer from blossom end rot while the later ones will improve. Culitvation Close cultivation to plants can damage the root system. As with everything else here, damaged roots will prevent proper calcium uptake and encourage blossom end rot. Mulching heavily (I use pine needles and grass clippings primarily) will help discourage weeds and maintain moisture levels. Fixes If its too late to prevent blossom end rot and you’re trying to salvage what tomatoes you can, there are some possible fixes. Foliar sprays of calcium or magnesium may help but research has been questionable. Other people suggest making teas from manure, compost, powdered milk, crushed egg shells, bone meal, or even Tums tablets. Removing fruit with blossom end rot may also help (you’re not going to eat it anyway, are you?). Remember that prevention is key here and try to fix it later may not work. Sources Cornell University Vegetable MD Online Garden Web CommentsLeave a Reply | ArchivesJanuary 2012 CategoriesAll 
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